#T10043 Water Jet WOVEN INTRLINING

Product Overview

This is the weight where outerwear stops feeling floppy but has not yet started to feel boardy. The article pairs a polyester base with a light PA/PES adhesive, so a fused front panel keeps its line while the shell still moves with the wearer.

It is the middle of our custom water jet interlining range, and it earns its place on mid-weight shells — wool blends, cotton twill and the bonded synthetics used for casual jackets. Where a lighter article leaves a panel too soft and a heavier one reads through the face fabric as a plate, this one usually lands right.

Rolls are supplied in off-white and dyed black. Off-white disappears under pale cotton and linen shells; dyed black is the practical choice under navy, charcoal and black, where a pale interlining can ghost through a thin point in the face fabric. On a fully lined coat the interlining sits behind the shell and in front of the garment lining, so the support lands where it is needed and the lining itself stays light.

The base is woven rather than knitted or chemically bonded, which is why it keeps its grain through spreading and cutting and fuses flat around a curve without springing back.

Weight Band & Fabric Fit

• Between the 55 and 70 gsm articles. At 60 gsm total — 50 gsm base plus 10 gsm glue — this is the step between the two weights either side of it, with more body than the lighter option and less plate than the heavier one on a mid-weight shell. - Mid-weight woven shells. Wool blends, cotton twill, gabardine and bonded casual-jacket fabrics carry this weight comfortably; the more body the shell has, the more it takes before a fused area starts to read as a separate panel. - Structured fronts and edges. Jacket fronts, pocket flaps, plackets and cuff bands are where the band does its clearest work, because those are the parts a buyer sees and handles first. - Pale shells, off-white. Undyed off-white sits closest to natural cotton and linen tones and stays invisible under light face fabrics. - Dark shells, dyed black. Dyed black removes the pale edge that shows at a seam or a thin point on navy, charcoal and black outerwear. - Wool and wool-blend coats. Front panels, pocket flaps and under-collar pieces take 60 gsm well; the fused area holds its shape through a season of wear without dragging on the garment lining behind it. - Casual jackets and blousons. Cuff bands, collar stands and front edges are the first places a soft construction collapses, and the first places a fusible interlining at this weight earns its cost. - Tailored jackets and blazers. A front that should break softly rather than stand away from the body suits this weight better than a heavier structure would. - Fashion outerwear. Shaped yokes, storm flaps and split seams keep a clean edge through the press because the woven base does not creep under the foot. - Coated and water-repellent shells. A matte interlining under a coated face fabric does not change the surface look, which matters when the finish was chosen deliberately.

Base Fabric & Coating Build

The base is made by water jet spunlace: fine high-pressure jets entangle the polyester fibres into a dense, even web rather than gluing them together with a chemical binder. That is what puts this product in our water jet interlining range, and it is why the base feels smoother and cuts straighter than a bonded non-woven of the same weight. The face is a plain weave with a matte finish, so it does not flash through a lightweight shell under factory lighting. Turn a swatch over and the adhesive side shows as a fine, evenly spaced white dot pattern against the base colour. That pattern is the PA/PES coating, applied light enough to give a continuous bond on a mid-weight woven shell without driving adhesive through to the face — the failure that surfaces later as a shiny patch on a finished jacket front. Shade runs through the roll rather than sitting on top of it. Off-white is the natural tone of the undyed polyester; dyed black is coloured through, so a cut edge does not read pale against a dark shell. Both are slit to the standard roll width.

Structural Design and Compatibility

This is a fusible interlining built to sit between the shell and whatever lies behind it, so compatibility is mostly a question of what is on the other side of the press. Against woven face fabrics — wool blends, cotton twill, gabardine, bonded synthetics — the base fuses flat and stays flat. It also works over pocketing and non-woven backings, where a lighter knit interlining can telegraph through.

The roll width is deliberate: it spans the working width of wide-format automatic cutters and continuous fusing machines, so the roll runs through the line without being split first, and on a flat-bed press the same width simply means fewer passes across a large panel.

Stretch is the one place to plan ahead. This article is not the answer for an elastane-rich shell on its own; on stretch panels it is paired with a matching water jet elastic interlining so the give stays in the garment and the reinforcement does not fight it.

Two things are worth settling before bulk: whether your line is set for a PA/PES blend or for straight PA, and whether your shell is light enough that the interlining shows at a fused edge. Send a shell sample and we will fuse a panel and return it for your own press trial.

Stable Performance & Production Benefits

• Bond that survives laundering. The coating resists bubbling and edge lift through repeated wash cycles, so the failure that usually appears after the first delivery turns up in the sample room instead.
• Dimensionally stable after fusing. Panels stay the size they were cut, which keeps a fused front aligned with the pattern piece it was matched to.
• Low weight in the finished garment. At 60 gsm the fused area adds support without adding heft, so comfort is not traded away for shape.
• A short, even fusing window. The 10 gsm coating activates quickly and consistently, which shortens dwell time per panel and takes energy out of the press cycle.
• Less movement between plies. The woven base grips rather than slides, reducing the shifting that produces puckering along a curved seam and rework at the end of the line.
• A higher first-time pass rate. Fewer bubbles, fewer creases and fewer re-presses per hundred panels is the number that shows up on the production report.
• Support at 60 gsm without bulk. The base carries the shape and the thin adhesive layer does the bonding, so a fused front holds its line without the thickness that makes a jacket hang heavy. - A balanced hand. Firm enough to keep a pocket flap sitting flat through wear, supple enough that a collar still rolls instead of standing away from the neck. - Clean cutting on the spreading table. The woven base holds its grain under tension and cuts without fraying or dragging, which keeps the marker yield where the cut plan put it. - Two shades for matching and inspection. Off-white against pale shells and dyed black against dark ones both let an inspector see a missed fuse, a crease or an adhesive line before the panel reaches sewing. - Consistent from lot to lot. The base is formed by the same spunlace process on every run, so the hand and the fusing response stay inside the band your press settings were built around. - A coating that suits modern fusing lines. The PA/PES blend matches the adhesive systems many automatic presses are already set up for, and the 10 gsm glue weight is tuned to mid-weight woven shells rather than to a heavy construction.

Reinforcement for Industrial Garment Production

For a factory producing industrial workwear, the interlining has to survive more than a fashion jacket ever will. Collars, cuffs, pocket mouths and plackets on a work jacket are rubbed, bent and laundered far more often than the body panels, and those are exactly the places where a support layer either earns its keep or fails. At 60 gsm this article has enough body to keep a collar standing through repeated washing without making the jacket uncomfortable across the shoulders during a shift.

Run it through an automatic fusing machine and the woven base gives a uniform laminate from the first panel to the last: no ripples at the roll end, no patchy bond where pressure rolled off at the edge of the platen. Curved pieces such as a collar stand or a rounded pocket flap press flat because the 10 gsm coating activates evenly instead of pooling in the weave of the base.

Programmes of this kind repeat — same jacket, same shell, same specification, season after season — and the buyers running them tend to stay with one water jet interlining factory rather than re-qualify a material every year. The specification that passed the first trial is the one that has to arrive unchanged on the next delivery.

Our water jet interlining is deployed mainly in workwear programmes, outerwear factories running coats and casual jackets, and fashion lines where a shaped panel has to hold its line on the rail. In all three the same property matters: a material that behaves the same way on the first shift of the season and on the last container. On the line, a woven base is easier to handle than a loose non-woven. It lies flat on the spreader, does not stretch out of shape when pulled from the roll, and can be cut on the same marker as the shell without a separate pass. That is production efficiency in the plainest sense — fewer metres lost to edge trim, fewer re-cuts, fewer panels pulled off the press. Raw materials are selected against current environmental requirements for textile production, a question buyers ask more often each season about the trims inside their garments. As a water jet interlining factory we also run this article as a stocked line, so a programme that repeats across a season is not held up between deliveries by a fresh production run.

Embroidery Backing & Fusing Applications

1. Check the stitch density against the panel. For light and medium-weight embroidery on woven panels, a 60 gsm backing supports the design without leaving a visible plate under the stitching; dense fills on a thin shell deserve a trial panel before the run is booked.
2. Cut the backing with the grain of the panel. A backing cut off-grain can pull the design out of square once it is fused, and the distortion only appears after the embroidery is finished.
3. Fuse the coated side down. Place the adhesive face against the reverse of the panel and press at the settings your shell needs, keeping heat and pressure even across the piece so the backing bonds without marking the face.
4. Let the panel cool flat. Moving a fused panel while the adhesive is still soft is what produces the wave that the embroidery machine then stitches around.
5. Hoop and stitch as normal. The fused backing locks the fabric shape, so multi-head machines hold registration across a run and appliqué pieces stay flat under the needle.
6. Wash the trial piece the way the garment will be washed. A backing that survives stitching but shifts in laundering shows up on the customer's garment rather than in your sample room.

Technical Composition and Specifications

Ordering & Delivery

• Stocked article. Stock available; shipped by the container, so a running programme can be released without waiting for a fresh production run.
• Custom grammage and width. Custom water jet interlining is quoted against your own sample — send the shell, the weight band you need and the quantity, and we will confirm what can be run.
• Standard width. Narrower or wider rolls than the standard are discussed case by case.
• Shade approval. Ask your sales contact about sample availability and approve off-white or dyed black against your shell before the bulk run.
• Lead time and terms. Confirm current lead time, order quantity and payment terms with your sales contact — they move with the article, the width and the season.
• Packing and loading. Rolls are packed for container shipment; confirm the packing method and roll length your warehouse needs when the order is placed.
• Documentation. Tell us at enquiry stage what paperwork your import or quality team needs, and we will confirm what can travel with the shipment.
• Ordering direct. As a water jet interlining factory we set the base weight and the coating on our own line, so a question about grammage, width or bond goes to the people who run it.

Scale & Supply Capability

We are a manufacturer rather than a trading company: production, quality control and stock sit under one roof, and we supply buyers worldwide — mostly converters, garment producers and trade partners who resell or specify our interlining into their own programmes. Fast-moving articles are kept in stock, so container-level repeat orders can be released without waiting on a fresh production run. Custom grammage, width and private-label packing are available on request, and we will help you match the right article to your shell fabric before you commit to bulk.

FAQ