A polyester base carries a polyamide adhesive, and roughly a fifth of the total weight is glue — enough to hold a collar stand, a cuff or a pocket flap through repeated wear and washing, while the base stays light enough to keep the drape of a mid-weight jacket. Against the rest of the range its job is easy to place. Articles between roughly 18 and 33 gsm suit light shells and soft casual jackets, where a firmer hand would read through the face fabric. From 55 gsm upward the material starts to carry structured outerwear and heavy shaping work. Article 5044 sits in the middle of that range: coat fronts, jacket bodies, waistbands and cuffs on shells that need body but still have to move with the wearer. Off-white covers pale and pastel shells; the dyed black version blends into navy, charcoal and black outerwear, so no light edge shows at a seam or against a dark garment lining. In daily production it handles like standard fusible roll goods: spread, cut with the grain, fuse on a flat press or a continuous fusing machine, then sew the panel as one laminated piece. Outerwear and workwear factories run it through the season, and embroidery units use the same roll as a stable backing.
The base is a 100% polyester web formed and bonded with high-pressure water jets rather than a chemical binder. That is what gives the material its tight, matte surface and its even thickness across the roll — a uniform face for the cutter, and a uniform response when heat reaches the adhesive side.
The adhesive is pure polyamide. In the lower half of the range this is the heaviest glue loading, and it is why a mid-weight article can hold a structured panel without a heavier base behind it. PA activates quickly under a press and takes a firm, even hold.
Colour is either natural off-white or dyed black. The black version is available with a dotted adhesive face, which lets an operator see at a glance which side goes down on a dark panel.
Cut swatches from the roll show a tight matte face on the fabric side and a fine, evenly spaced adhesive pattern on the reverse. That pattern is worth checking at the roll end before the roll goes on the spreading table — an even dot across the width means the coating is intact edge to edge.
The article is a two-layer structure: a polyester base and a single adhesive face. Only the coated side bonds, so the roll has a clear up and down — worth marking at the spreading table on dyed black, where the two faces look alike under factory light.
One roll can serve several styles in the same building, because what changes between shells is not the adhesive but the shell itself. A tightly woven, heavier shell needs a little more dwell so heat reaches the adhesive through the fabric; a thin or open-weave shell needs less heat and lighter pressure so the glue does not strike through to the face.
Coated, water-repellent and very smooth shells are the exception that needs handling. Those surfaces are the usual cause of a bond that looks correct off the press and lifts after the first wash, so run a trial panel through the real press before the bulk run.
In construction the layer sits between the shell and the garment lining, adding structure without visible bulk at the seam. On stretch panels it is normally paired with a matching elastic interlining, so the laminated piece recovers with the shell instead of fighting it.
Cut with the grain and let the roll relax flat before spreading. A roll that has stood on end overnight will show its memory as a wave in the first plies, and that wave ends up as a distorted panel.
This weight is used across workwear, outerwear and fashion clothing — anywhere a garment needs structure that survives industrial handling. The same roll runs on automatic cutting tables and on continuous fusing machines, and the settings approved on the trial panel hold for the rest of the run, so nobody has to re-set the press halfway through a lay.
As a water jet interlining factory, we build every order — stock article or custom water jet interlining — to behave the same way lot after lot, because the cost of a variable interlining lands later on the line: a fuser reset mid-run, a cutter that has to slow down, a QC station that inspects every panel twice. Consistency here is a production benefit, not a slogan.
The material balances toughness and softness in a way that extends garment service life without adding weight. Raw materials are selected with current environmental requirements in mind, and the process is set up for high-capacity programmes that need repeatable output rather than one-off batches.
It also simplifies the flow after cutting. Because the panel is laminated before it reaches sewing, collars and cuffs can be handled as single pieces — fewer layers to align, fewer chances for a shift, and less trimming at the end of the line.
For a technician, that means one setting sheet per style rather than a setting per operator; for a planner, it means the interlining stops being the variable that has to be watched.
For embroidery and appliqué work, the roll serves as a stable backing substrate. Fused behind the panel before it goes into the hoop, it locks the fabric shape and stops the design pulling, puckering or distorting as the needle builds up stitches.
The light but tough structure bonds well to light and medium-weight fabrics and holds its size after fusing, which is what keeps a repeated motif landing in the same place across a run of panels. A fused panel also holds tension in the hoop more evenly, so the machine runs at speed without the fabric creeping between passes.
Surface consistency matters more here than anywhere else on the line. Because the face texture is even across the roll and the adhesive activates uniformly, the embroidery head meets the same surface on every panel — the condition a precision machine needs in order to run without adjustment mid-run.
It suits both manual and automatic workflows: manual tables use it to stabilise a single panel, automatic lines use it to keep a long run aligned. Either way, less material is lost to misaligned panels and rejected stitching, and appliqué pieces can be fused flat before they are stitched down.
| Article | 5044 |
| Composition | 100%Poly |
| Construction | Water Jet Interlining |
| Total weight | 45 gsm |
| Base fabric weight | 35 |
| Coating material | 100% PA |
| Glue weight | 10 gsm |
| Color | Off-White/Dyed Black |
| Width | 60"/150CM |
| Format | Roll goods |
| Hand-feel | Crisp matte face over a soft polyester base |
| Adhesive side | Reverse of the roll, PA dot coated |
| Face fabrics | Woven and non-woven shells |
| Typical garments | Collar stands, cuffs, pocket flaps, waistbands, coat fronts, jacket bodies |
We are a manufacturer rather than a trading company: production, quality control and stock sit under one roof, and we supply buyers worldwide — mostly converters, garment producers and trade partners who resell or specify our interlining into their own programmes. Fast-moving articles are kept in stock, so container-level repeat orders can be released without waiting on a fresh production run. Custom grammage, width and private-label packing are available on request, and we will help you match the right article to your shell fabric before you commit to bulk.
