#3013 Water Jet WOVEN INTRLINING

What the 7 gsm Coating Changes

Small, shaped parts are where Article 3013 earns its place. A collar stand, a placket, a pocket flap or a cuff is handled far more than a flat front panel, and the 4.5 gsm coating used further down this water jet interlining range can run out of reserve exactly there — the point lifts, the fold ripples, and the fault only appears after pressing or the first wash.

This article is built for that job. A 23 gsm woven polyester base carries 7 gsm of polyamide adhesive for a 30 gsm total, so most of the weight stays in the fabric and the bond sits on top of it. The base supplies the line; the coating keeps that line once the garment has been buttoned, pressed and laundered. The face is a plain weave with a matte, opaque surface, which is why pale shells do not pick up a grey cast from it.

It comes in off-white for undyed and pale shells and in dyed black for dark shells, where the contrast also makes a missed fuse easy to see on the inspection table. Mid-weight cotton twill, poly-cotton, mid-weight wool blends and the shells used in workwear are its natural partners. The material is fusible — activated by heat and pressure on a standard press, not sewn in as a loose layer the way a garment lining is.

Bond Behaviour at Edges and Points

• Reserve at the shaped parts. 7 gsm leaves margin at a collar point, a pocket flap corner and a placket end, which is where a starved bond shows up first as lifting or a chalky glue line.
• Softness comes from the base. 23 of the 30 gsm is woven polyester, so a fused part still folds; the extra adhesive does not turn the panel plastic.
• A bond that survives laundering. Fused at settings suited to the shell, panels stay flat after washing with no bubbling and no edge lift.
• Clean cutting on small parts. The tight, uniform surface cuts without fraying at the blade, so flap and cuff pieces come off the table the same size every time.
• 100% polyamide coating. No blended or heavily filled glue, so it activates on a normal press cycle and grips cotton, poly-cotton, twill and wool blends.
• Shade as an inspection aid. Off-white under pale shells, dyed black under dark ones, and the contrasting shade exposes a missed fuse before the panel leaves the table.

Line Behaviour and Lot Consistency

Consistency matters more than any single figure. Every roll that leaves our water jet interlining factory is built on the same 23 gsm base and coated to the same 7 gsm, so the press settings proven on the first lot still hold on the fifth and operators are not re-dialling temperature and pressure at every roll change.

Rolls feed flat, cut square and lay up without curling at the edges, which keeps the spreader at line speed. Panels fused flat also sew more predictably: a bonded part that has not shifted holds its seam allowance where the pattern put it, so first-time pass rates improve and rework falls on a bulk order.

Because the material behaves the same way across machine speeds and press types, it can be planned like any other input rather than treated as a variable. That is worth most on a repeat programme, where a style is re-cut season after season and nobody wants to re-qualify the interlining each time — true of a standard roll and of a custom water jet interlining run alike.

Where It Fits and Where It Does Not

Face fabrics. Woven shells — cotton, poly-cotton, twill and mid-weight wool blends — bond reliably, and non-woven substrates work too. Surface finish matters more than fibre content: a tightly woven, resin-finished or laminated shell can hold the bond differently, so fuse a trial panel before a bulk order.

Not a substitute for lining. This is an interlining, fused to the reverse of the shell to give it shape and hold. A garment lining is the separate cloth that covers the inside of the finished piece for comfort and finish; both are chosen for the same style and neither replaces the other.

Apparel only. The article is made for garment production and is not intended for medical, filtration, automotive or other technical textile use.

Paperwork. No certificate, accreditation or lab report accompanies this article. A programme that requires certified material is better raised at the enquiry stage, before an order is placed.

Positions It Is Specified For

• Collar stands and collars on casual and uniform jackets — enough body for the stand to sit up, still soft enough for the collar to fold.
• Plackets and button stands — fused to stay flat through repeated fastening and pressing.
• Pocket flaps and welts — small shaped pieces where a lighter article will not hold the corner and a heavier one shows through the seam.
• Cuffs and waistbands — the parts that take the most handling on a jacket that is worn hard.
• Front panels of mid-weight jackets — a clean line through the front without the padded hand of a 45 gsm weight.
• Sample rooms — a short length covers trial panels while a new style is being developed on a mid-weight shell.

Backing for Dense Stitch Work

Behind an embroidery or appliqué area the same article does a different job: it becomes the substrate that keeps the ground fabric from moving. Fused behind the design, it holds the shell stable as the needle penetrates, so satin columns and fills stay where the artwork put them instead of puckering once the frame is released.

An even surface matters as much as bond strength here. A backing with thick and thin patches changes needle penetration and thread tension from one part of the design to the next, and the operator ends up adjusting the machine mid-run; the spunlace base is uniform across the roll, so adhesion and surface behave the same wherever the frame lands.

It suits manual frames and multi-head automatics alike, provided the panel is fused flat before it is hooped. On shirt-weight and mid-weight shells the 30 gsm structure bonds without leaving a visible step under the stitching; on a stretch shell, pair it with a matching elastic interlining rather than fusing it alone.

Article 3013 in Numbers

Weight Bands and Roll Widths

• 150 cm as the working width — a full front panel plus gripper allowance on both sides, the width most cutters keep on the floor.
• Other widths on request — a custom water jet interlining run can be quoted for narrower or wider rolls; the figure to send is the widest bonded panel plus the spreader allowance.
• Where 30 gsm sits — mid-weight shells on which a 22.5 gsm article collapses at the collar stand but a 45 gsm front would read heavy through the panel.
• Lighter shells — the 22.5 gsm band, where drape matters more than edge-holding.
• Heavier briefs — coat fronts, heavy twill and parts that must hold a hard edge belong on the 45 gsm article with its 10 gsm coating.

Stock Position and Container Delivery

• Stock and shipment — Stock available; shipped by the container. Orders are released from our water jet interlining factory stock rather than waiting on a fresh production run.
• Approval before bulk — a trial panel fused and washed on your own shell settles hand-feel, bond and surface faster than any document.
• Repeat programmes — flag the articles you expect to reorder so stock can be planned around your production schedule.
• Width or grammage changes — quoted per order and confirmed before the booking is made.
• Commercial detail — quantity, terms and the delivery window are agreed with your sales contact at order confirmation and stated on the order documents.

Scale & Supply Capability

We are a manufacturer rather than a trading company: our water jet interlining factory keeps production, quality control and stock under one roof, and we supply buyers worldwide — mostly converters, garment producers and trade partners who resell or specify our interlining into their own programmes. Fast-moving articles are kept in stock, so container-level repeat orders can be released without waiting on a fresh production run. Custom grammage, width and private-label packing are available on request, and we will help you match the right article to your shell fabric before you commit to bulk.

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