#20016 Water Jet WOVEN INTRLINING

The Top of the Weight Range

#20016 is the heaviest article our water jet interlining factory runs: a 135 gsm interlining on a 120 gsm polyester base, coated with 15 gsm of pure PA adhesive. It is specified where a panel has to hold a line rather than fall softly — coat fronts, uniform jacket bodies, structured collar stands and waistbands on heavy cloth.

The base is formed by spunlace, water jets entangling the polyester fibres into a dense, even sheet instead of bonding them with a chemical binder. That density is the whole point. The roll spreads flat, cuts clean and keeps its grain through the marker, and a single fuse at this weight does the work that two lighter interlinings would otherwise be stacked to do.

It is a fusible interlining, not a garment lining. The garment lining is the separate cloth inside a coat that the wearer sees; this sheet fuses to the back of the shell, sits behind that lining, and carries the structure in a place nobody looks at.

What the Extra Grammage Does

• A fuller coating than anything else in the range. At 15 gsm the adhesive has enough body to wet into twill, brushed wool and tightly woven gabardine, where a thin coat can skin over before it reaches the weave and leave a dry bond.
• One heavy fuse instead of two light ones. Builds that stack two light interlinings to give a coat front its shape can make a single pass at this weight — one trip through the press, and no chance of two layers shifting against each other.
• A dense sheet that cuts clean. The base holds together at the edge, so curved fronts and collar stands come off the cutter without fraying into the vacuum bed or distorting on the spread.
• Even activation across 150 cm. Long panels bond without puckering, and the line does not have to be slowed down at the roll ends.
• Strike-through held back. The PA film is applied evenly, which keeps the outside of the cloth clean at the fold and along the lapel roll.
• Firm, not brittle. The hand is deliberately hard-wearing at this weight — that is what the article is bought for — but the sheet still bends with heavy cloth instead of creasing sharply.

Specification Sheet

Setting the Press on Heavy Cloth

1. Read the adhesive note first. Our article data records 60 °C against the coating; that figure describes the adhesive, not the press. Heat has to cross a 120 gsm base before the film can wet out, so the window you run sits well above it — establish it on your own shell rather than keying the note into the controller.
2. Work up from offcuts. Fuse 20–30 cm squares at the low end of the machine's range, then step the temperature up in small increments with pressure and dwell held fixed.
3. Peel when cool. A bond that has formed properly takes fibres from the shell with it; one that releases cleanly and leaves a chalky surface has not wet out.
4. Look at the face side. A faint weave imprint is normal; a glazed or shiny patch means the plate was too hot or the panel sat too long uncovered.
5. Fuse flat panels, not assemblies. A thick seam, a pocket flap or a button stand under the plate becomes a high spot that takes the load and leaves the cloth around it under-bonded.
6. Write the setting down per shell. Successive rolls run to the same specification, so a figure that has passed your wash test carries over to the next delivery.
7. The 60 °C note describes the adhesive, not the press. Our article data records 60 °C against the coating, and it is most accurately read as a note on the glue itself. Pure PA is a thermoplastic film: it softens, turns tacky and flows under pressure, then sets again as it cools. 60 °C sits in that low-activation region — the point at which the film becomes willing to bond, not the point at which a 135 gsm water jet interlining is finished fusing. If your shell is heat-sensitive, confirm the figure with us before you key anything into the controller. The base is the thermal obstacle. At 120 gsm the polyester base outweighs the 15 gsm glue line eight to one and sits directly between the plate and the adhesive. Heat has to travel through that sheet before the film can wet out, so the temperature at the glue line always trails the temperature you set. Two presses reading the same number can therefore deliver different bonds, which is why the working window belongs to your shell and your machine rather than to the note on the coating. Temperature, pressure and dwell move together. Heat thins the film, pressure drives it into the weave, and dwell gives it the seconds it needs to flow and fill. Where one is raised the others can usually come down. On a coarse twill or a brushed wool, extra dwell is often more useful than extra heat, because it lets the adhesive penetrate the surface without glazing the face side of the cloth. The bond forms as it cools. PA gains its strength on solidification, not while the plate is down. Leave the fused panel flat and untouched until it reaches room temperature; a panel lifted warm, folded over a rail or stacked while the film is still soft can shift and set slightly out of register, and that is the kind of fault that only surfaces after a wash. Rest the panel before a wash test rather than putting it straight into the machine. 15 gsm is the heaviest glue line in the range. The light articles carry 4.5 gsm and the mid band 7 to 10 gsm, so this coating is roughly four times the thinnest. More adhesive means more material to fill the valleys of a textured shell, more tolerance for small pressure variation across a 150 cm plate, and a bond on canvas, melton or bonded outerwear that reads as a bond rather than a surface skin. Pure PA, where the heavier articles use a blend. The coating here stays 100% PA rather than the PA/PES blend used on other heavy weights in the range. If your wash programme is the deciding factor in coating choice, tell us what the garment goes through and we will confirm which coating suits the end use. Moisture works against the film. PA takes up moisture from the air. Rolls stored on a damp floor or left unwrapped in a humid cutting room can bond weakly on the first pass. Keep them wrapped, off concrete, and let a cold roll come up to room temperature before it goes on the table — condensation on the coating is a quiet cause of a patchy fuse that gets blamed on the press. A lifted edge can be re-pressed. Because the adhesive is thermoplastic, a corner that lifts during handling can usually be re-fused at the same setting instead of being re-cut. Press the affected area flat, keep the plate clear of the surrounding bulk so the seam does not become a high spot, and let it cool again before the panel is moved.

Where 135 gsm Reaches Its Limit

• Fine silk, light viscose, thin shirting. A construction weight reads as boardy on cloth chosen for movement, and the 14.5 and 22.5 gsm articles in the range are built for those shells. - Soft, drape-led fashion. Where the garment is meant to fall away from the body, the extra body here fights the design. - Elastane-rich stretch panels. Fuse a stretch shell together with a matching elastic interlining rather than relying on this sheet alone. - Thin pale shells at a fused edge. A heavy panel can ghost through at a seam; hold a fused offcut against the light before the run is released.

Where It Belongs on the Garment

A coat front is the clearest case. Wool and wool-blend cloth has to roll at the lapel and stay flat across the chest, and a heavy woven interlining fused behind the panel is what holds that line through a season of wear. The same weight goes into uniform and workwear jackets, where the front, the collar stand and the placket are pressed, packed and leaned against far more often than the body panels.

Small parts take the most handling, so waistbands, pocket flaps, cuff bands and button stands are cut from the same roll — pieces the wearer feels through the garment lining long before anything else on the jacket. On structured fashion outerwear it keeps a shaped yoke or a storm flap crisp without the laminated feel a bonded panel can give.

It also serves as a fused embroidery backing on heavy grounds — denim, canvas, wool melton — where a tear-away backing lets a dense motif pull the weave out of square.

Placing a Bulk Order

1. Confirm the article and the width. 150 cm is standard; other widths are checked against the run size, and custom water jet interlining in a different total weight is confirmed per order.
2. Check stock against your production calendar. Stock available; shipped by the container. We confirm the roll count and the loading window before the goods are released.
3. Settle packing and documents. Roll length, labelling and the paperwork your forwarder needs are agreed with your sales contact before loading.
4. Fuse a trial panel first. Approve the hand-feel on your own shell before the run is released.
5. Terms. Price, payment terms and lead time are quoted per order — confirm them with your sales contact.

Scale & Supply Capability

We are a water jet interlining factory rather than a trading company: production, quality control and stock sit under one roof, and we supply buyers worldwide — mostly converters, garment producers and trade partners who resell or specify our interlining into their own programmes. Fast-moving articles are kept in stock, so container-level repeat orders can be released without waiting on a fresh production run. Custom grammage, width and private-label packing are available on request, and we will help you match the right article to your shell fabric before you commit to bulk.

FAQ