#1554 Water Jet WOVEN INTRLINING

The 18.5 gsm Step Above Our Lightest Article

Article 1554 sits one rung above the lightest article in our water jet interlining range. The extra body comes from the base cloth, not from a heavier adhesive film, so a light-to-mid jacket gains a cleaner line at the collar stand, cuff, placket and pocket flap without going boardy. Because the coating is unchanged, the press window stays close to the 14.5 gsm article. An operator who already runs that weight does not need a new fusing recipe for this one. Off-white is the natural match for pale and undyed shells. Dyed black keeps a dark shell from showing a pale edge at an open seam or a rolled cuff. - More body, same adhesive: the base rises from 10 gsm to 14 gsm while the PA film stays at 4.5 gsm, so the panel gains support without a thicker bond line. - A cleaner line at stress points: collar stands, cuffs, plackets and pocket flaps stay flatter through cutting, sewing and pressing than they do on the 14.5 gsm article. - No boardy feel on light shells: the added weight is still low enough that a soft jacket folds at the elbow and hangs from the shoulder. - Familiar fusing behaviour: because the coating is unchanged, the press setting used for the lightest article is the starting point for this one. - Stable through normal washing: the bonded panel keeps its dimensions, with no bubbling or edge lift at garment wash settings. - Clean cut edges: the spunlace base holds a straight knife or die line, so small parts stack squarely.

Light-Band Weight Ladder

Consistency from Roll to Roll

Coating weight and surface texture are checked at our water jet interlining factory before goods are released, so the roll that reaches the cutting table behaves like the sample that was approved. For a programme running one article across several styles, that is what keeps the second container close to the first.

The 150 cm roll matches wide-format spreaders and automatic cutters, which reduces offcut on standard jacket panels and keeps roll changes down. The spunlace base holds its dimensions through pressing, so cut pieces still line up at the machine after fusing.

At this weight the garment keeps its hand: the reinforcement gives a jacket front its line without padding it, and the panel still folds where the pattern asks it to. Bond strength is high for 18.5 gsm, and the PA film anchors the base across the panel rather than in patches.

Press Settings to Prove on Your Shell

1. Fuse a trial piece on the actual shell, using the same finish and batch you will run: a custom water jet interlining is only proven on the shell it will run on, and a stock test cloth will not show how a coated or brushed face behaves.
2. Place the coated side against the wrong side of the shell so the PA film bonds to the face fabric, not to the press bed.
3. Bring the panel up to heat evenly. A short, hot cycle can put shine on a sensitive shell before the bond has developed.
4. Apply pressure across the full panel in one pass, then let it cool flat before moving or stacking it.
5. Peel-test a corner once cold and wash the trial the way the finished garment will be washed.
6. Record the setting against article 1554 and the shell. This article is not a garment lining, and it is not a construction-weight interlining for heavy coat fronts; use the 30 gsm and upward articles where the pattern calls for a hard break.

Where the Second Rung Earns Its Place

On a light casual jacket, article 1554 usually goes into the front panel, yoke, placket, collar stand and cuff. The shell keeps its shape without the telegraphing that a firmer band can cause on a soft face. Soft-tailored outerwear uses it at the lapel roll and collar stand, where the piece has to hold a line and still turn naturally. Unstructured blazers and soft sports coats take it as front support without a canvas, which keeps the shoulder light.

A lined jacket still needs its garment lining: the interlining is fused to the shell first, then the lining is made up over it. The two layers do different jobs, and this article sits on the inside of the face fabric rather than replacing the lining.

Light uniform jackets and workwear shirts can use the same weight at the collar and cuff, provided the shell and wash programme have been trialled.

Small Parts and Stitch Support

• Pocket flaps, cuff tabs and epaulettes: small turned parts that need a crisp edge and a flat surface after pressing.
• Placket ends and button stands: the fused piece keeps the closure line straight without adding bulk.
• Embroidery backing on light and mid-weight shells: the panel stays flat under dense stitching, so the motif does not draw the cloth in.
• Appliqué pieces: fuse before stitching so the edge stays put under the needle.
• Die-cut trims: the base holds a clean edge, which helps when small shapes are cut from the roll.
• Manual and automatic embroidery: short lengths can be cut for hand work, while full panels run through automated lines.

Article 1554 Specification Sheet

Stocked Articles and Custom Runs

Article 1554 is a stocked line, which suits programmes that repeat the same weight across several styles. Where a shell falls between two bands, or a marker needs a different width, custom water jet interlining is quoted against the target weight, width and face fabric rather than pushed to the nearest standard article. The same 100% polyester water jet base and PA coating run across the light band, so moving between articles does not mean re-approving a new fusing process.

Ordering and Delivery

Stock available; shipped by the container. Standard supply is in natural off-white and dyed black on full rolls. Tell your sales contact the colour and total metres when the order is placed, and confirm the roll length you need. Send the target weight, width and shell fabric so the request can be checked before anything is cut. Lead time and the container loading plan are agreed against your production schedule.

Scale & Supply Capability

We are a manufacturer rather than a trading company: production, quality control and stock sit under one roof, and we supply buyers worldwide — mostly converters, garment producers and trade partners who resell or specify our interlining into their own programmes. Fast-moving articles are kept in stock, so container-level repeat orders can be released without waiting on a fresh production run. Custom grammage, width and private-label packing are available on request, and we will help you match the right article to your shell fabric before you commit to bulk.

FAQ